Sampot chang samluy

Sampot chong samluy
Khmer female deity wearing sampot chang samluy featuring pleats and folds in front with bunched cloth draped over a belt. 1000s AD, Guimet Museum
Khmer ballerina in sampot samluy sarabap "ka'at kbal neak" (“folded like the head of naga”), 2000s AD.


Sampot chang samluy (Khmer: សំពត់ចងសម្លុយ [sɑmpɔt cɑːŋ sɑmluj]) is a draped skirt-style garment wrapped around the lower body and secured at the waist.[1][2]

Etymology

Sampot សំពត់ (/sɑmpʊət/),[3] a long, rectangular cloth worn around the lower body; chang ចង (/cɑɑŋ/) refers to cloth that’s bundled,[4] and samluy សម្លុយ (pronounced sam-luy) meaning "to wear a skirt with the hem down;" "samluy, the opposite of tying in a knot (chong kben)," and "that which is worn down, a skirt that is worn down."[5][6]

History

Like chang kben, chang samluy goes back to Funan and is present in ancient Khmer sculpture and carvings. Whereas both male and female figures are depicted wearing chang samluy, the overwhelming majority are seen on females.[7] Today the samluy, a thinner sampot than that of the chong kben, is worn mostly by women.[8]

Styles

One fashion of sampot chang samluy involves the textile sarabap (also charobab), a brocaded silk with gold and silver thread[9] worn by Khmer ballerinas, royalty, and for formal occasions.[10] Female roles in Khmer ballet, as well as brides on their wedding day, may wear sampot sarabap ka'at kbal neak (“folded like the head of naga),” referring to how the draped bundled of folded pleats look like a naga’s head.[11]

Another fashion of wearing sampot chang samluy is sampot bot, which translates to "folded skirt."[12] This refers to the long, flat fold along the entire length on the side where the straightened and fitted sampot is secured, instead of the traditional practice of knotting the draped version of the garment in front. This practice may have been a response to the West's influence on Cambodian fashion.[13] This style of chang samluy is typical among civil servants, and the silk variety may be worn for ceremonies.[14]

See also

References

  1. ↑ Berthon, Magali An (2025). 100 Fashion and Textile Terms in Khmer, English, and French (PDF). p. 107.
  2. ↑ Michelle Vachon (2004). "Book Recalls Clothing, Cosmetics and Personal Care in 19th and 20th Centuries". english.cambodiadaily.com/.
  3. ↑ "SEAlang Dictionary". www.sealang.net. Retrieved 2023-10-11.
  4. ↑ Green, Gillian (2025). INDIC IMPETUS INNOVATIONS IN TEXTILE USAGE IN ANGKORIAN PERIOD CAMBODIA (PDF). p. 279.
  5. ↑ Sangpa (2023). "Sangkab". sangapac.com/.
  6. ↑ Touch Chiva (2024). "Explain the Khmer word "samloy"". phkaslapartner.com/.
  7. ↑ Nob Dane SamAngkar (2023). "Khmer Art and Culture is Amazing! This is Real Khmer samluy, Not Copied from Neighboring Countries". knongsrok.com/.
  8. ↑ Magali An Berthon (2025). "The Cambodian Sampot Womanhood, modesty and emancipation". fashionandmarket.net/.
  9. ↑ Greene, Gillian (2003). Traditional textiles of Cambodia : cultural threads and material heritage. p. 211.
  10. ↑ Greene, Gillian (2003). Traditional textiles of Cambodia : cultural threads and material heritage. p. 50.
  11. ↑ Greene, Gillian (2003). Traditional textiles of Cambodia : cultural threads and material heritage. p. 201.
  12. ↑ Van Socheata (2024). "'Sampot bot' gala showcases Khmer dress". phnompenhpost.com/.
  13. ↑ Magali An Berthon (2025). "The Cambodian Sampot Womanhood, modesty and emancipation". fashionandmarket.net/.
  14. ↑ Van Socheata (2024). "'Sampot bot' gala showcases Khmer dress". phnompenhpost.com/.