Jakob Schubert

Jakob Schubert
Schubert at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Personal information
NationalityAustrian
Born (1990-12-31) 31 December 1990[1]
Innsbruck, Austria
OccupationProfessional sport climber
Height176 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight63 kg (139 lb)
Websitewww.jakob-schubert.com Edit this at Wikidata
Climbing career
Highest grade
First ascents
  • Companion of Change (9a+, 2015)
  • Kein Licht Kein Schatten (9a, 2016)
  • B.I.G. (9c, 2023)
Known for
  • Three-time World Cup (lead) winner (2011, 2014, 2018)
  • Four-time World (lead) Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023)
  • Two-time Olympic medalist (combined)
  • Most men's IFSC Gold Medals
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing  Austria
Olympic Games
Bronze medal – third place2020 TokyoCombined
Bronze medal – third place2024 ParisCombined
World Championships
Gold medal – first place2012 ParisLead
Gold medal – first place2018 InnsbruckLead
Gold medal – first place2018 InnsbruckCombined
Gold medal – first place2021 MoscowLead
Gold medal – first place2023 BernLead
Gold medal – first place2023 BernCombined
Silver medal – second place2011 ArcoLead
Silver medal – second place2016 ParisLead
Silver medal – second place2019 HachiōjiBouldering
Silver medal – second place2019 HachiōjiCombined
Bronze medal – third place2019 HachiōjiLead
World Cup (Season)
Gold medal – first place2011Lead
Gold medal – first place2011Combined
Gold medal – first place2012Combined
Gold medal – first place2013Combined
Gold medal – first place2014Lead
Gold medal – first place2018Lead
Gold medal – first place2018Combined
Silver medal – second place2016Lead
Silver medal – second place2016Combined
Bronze medal – third place2015Lead
World Youth Championships
Gold medal – first place2007Youth Lead
Gold medal – first place2008Juniors Lead
Gold medal – first place2009Juniors Lead
Silver medal – second place2005Youth Lead
Silver medal – second place2006Youth Lead
European Championships
Gold medal – first place2022 MunichCombined
Bronze medal – third place2010Lead
Bronze medal – third place2013Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place2017Lead
Updated on 20 August, 2026

Jakob Schubert (born 31 December 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three-time World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in lead climbing. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the combined event (2020 and 2024).

As of 2023, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history.

In addition to competition climbing, Schubert was the first climber in the world to have both redpointed a 9c (5.15d) graded sport climbing route and climbed a 9A (V17) graded bouldering problem.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Schubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he has regularly participated in World Cup competitions for lead climbing and bouldering.[2]

In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco.[3] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).[4]

In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.[5]

In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.[6]

In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.[2]

Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo,[7] where he won the bronze medal in the combined event.[8]

Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport.[9] He followed that up by winning the combined event, which qualified him to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.[10]

He won a second consecutive bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.[11]

Schubert competed two IFSC World Cups in 2025 and, as of August 2026, three World Climbing Series in 2026, all in Lead.[2]

Rock climbing

In 2023, Schubert became the only person in the world to have climbed the top grade in both bouldering and sport climbing.[12]

Rankings

Jakob Schubert at the World Cup in Munich, 2012.

Climbing World Cup

Discipline[13] 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021 2022 2023 2024 2025
Lead 26 7 4 2 1 3 2 1 3 2 6 1 14 16 33 10 20 29
Bouldering - - 60 65 19 3 2 - 25 23 10 9 10 16 12 36 11 -
Speed - - - - - 43 59 - 62 - - 51 - - - - - -
Combined - - 4 2 1 1 1 - 4 2 6 1 3 - - - - -

Climbing World Championships

Youth[14]

Discipline 2004
Youth B		 2005
Youth B		 2006
Youth A		 2007
Youth A		 2008
Juniors		 2009
Juniors
Lead 33 2 2 1 1 1

Adult[14]

Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019 2021 2023 2025
Lead 26 2 1 5 2 1 3 1 1 7
Bouldering - - - - - 10 2 27 12 -
Speed - - - - - 110 59 - - -
Combined - - - - - 1 2 - 1 -

Climbing European Championships

Discipline[14] 2008 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 6 3 7 6 3
Bouldering - - 3 4 -
Speed - - 35 27 31

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead

Season[14] Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2004Youth B11
2005Youth B11
2006Youth A3115
Total3137

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

Season[14] Gold Silver Bronze Total
200811
2009112
20101214
20117119
20121315
20132215
20142125
2015224
2016235
2017213
2018235
2019 1 1
2020 1 1
2021 1 1
2023 1 1 2
2024 1 1
2026 2 2
Total21171856

Bouldering

Season[14] Gold Silver Bronze Total
201111
2012112
20131113
201811
2019112
2021 1 1
2024 1 1
Total32611

Number of medals in the Olympics

Combined

Summer Olympics Gold Silver Bronze Total
2020 1 1
2024 1 1
Total0022

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9c (5.15d):

9b+ (5.15c):

9b (5.15b):

9a+ (5.15a)

  • Qui – Tyrol (AUT) – 2 October 2023
  • Clash of the Titans – Tyrol (AUT) – 3 October 2022
  • La Furia de Jabali – Siurana (ESP) – 15 December 2021
  • La Capella – Siurana (ESP) – 11 December 2021
  • Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP) – October 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route.
  • Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – 9 January 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Seleccio Anal – Oliana (ESP) – 8 January 2017
  • Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – 2 January 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
  • Joe Mama – Oliana (ESP) – 27 December 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Kangroo Limb – Flatanger (NOR) – 29 May 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra
  • Companion of Change – Zillertal (AUT) – 18 November 2015 – First ascent
  • Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – 27 April 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)[18]

9a (5.14d):

  • Alasha – Port de Sóller (ESP) – 10 October 2021 – Second ascent[19]
  • Weiße Rose – Schleierfall (AUT) – 30 April 2010 – Third ascent[20]
  • Kein Licht Kein Schatten – Ötztal (AUT) – 8 November 2016 – First ascent
  • Kraftplatzl – Berglsteiner See (AUT) – 15 October 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama
  • Direct open your mind – Santa Linya (ESP) – 3 January 2013
  • Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- 2 January 2013[21]
  • Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – 2 January 2013[21]
  • Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – 28 December 2012
  • Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – 24 December 2012
  • Martin Krpan – Misja Pec (SVN) – 21 November 2011[22]
  • Hades – Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) – 30 May 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008[23]
  • Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA) – 30 March 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):

Boulder problems

9A (V17)

8C+ (V16)

  • Ephyra – Chironico (CHE) – February 2026
  • Vecchio Leone SDS – Brione (CHE) – 12 January 2025
  • The Story of Three Worlds – Cresciano (CHE) – 12 January 2025
  • Return of the Dreamtime – Cresciano (CHE) – 28 December 2024

8C (V15)

  • Emotional Landscapes – Maltatal (AUT) – 5 March 2026
  • The Nest – Red Rock Canyon (USA) – January 2026
  • The Lion's Share – Brione (CHE) – 12 January 2025
  • Primitivo – Ticino (CHE) – 16 March 2021
  • La Force Tranquille Direct – Magic Wood (CHE) – 14 November 2020 – First Ascent
  • Sierra Madre – Zillertal (AUT) – 20 November 2018

8B+ (V14)

  • Mithril Sit – Cresciano (CHE) – 11 January 2026
  • The Innocent Man – Brione (CHE) – December 2025
  • Big Paw – Chironico (CHE) – 27 December 2024
  • Anam Cara – Silvapark (AUT) – 23 August 2021 – flashed
  • Ill Thrill – Magic Wood (CHE) – 28 July 2020
  • The Never Ending Story – Magic Wood (CHE) – June 2020 – flashed
  • Off the Wagon - Val Bavona (CHE) 10 January 2020
  • Witness the fitness – Cova de Ocell (ESP) – 13 January 2019 – flashed [28]
  • Hide and Sick – Maltatal (AUT) – 25 March 2018

See also

References

  1. ↑ "SCHUBERT Jakob". Paris 2024 Olympics. Archived from the original on 7 October 2024. Retrieved 5 January 2025.
  2. 1 2 3 "World Climbing Athlete Jakob Schubert". www.worldclimbing.com. Retrieved 19 August 2026.
  3. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (28 November 2011). "Puigblanque re di Spagna, insieme a Eiter, Kim e Markovic". Retrieved 23 December 2011.
  4. ↑ climbmagazine.com, ed. (22 October 2011). "Record 7 World Cup wins". Retrieved 15 April 2012.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: deprecated archival service (link)
  5. ↑ Franz Schiassi (18 September 2012). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Campionati del Mondo di arrampicata sportiva 2012, tutti i risultati da Parigi". Retrieved 18 September 2012.
  6. ↑ "Jain Kim and Jakob Schubert win the Lead World Cup 2014". PlanetMountain.com. 28 October 2014. Retrieved 4 September 2022.
  7. ↑ "Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo". LACRUX Klettermagazin. 19 August 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
  8. ↑ "Tokyo Olympics: Sport Climbing - Men's Combined results". BBC Sport. 3 August 2021. Retrieved 9 August 2024.
  9. ↑ "LEAD RECORDS BROKEN BY MORI AND SCHUBERT IN BERN". 6 August 2023. Retrieved 13 August 2023.
  10. ↑ "IFSC Climbing World Championships 2023: Jakob Schubert adds combined boulder and lead title to lead gold in Bern". 12 August 2023. Retrieved 13 August 2023.
  11. ↑ "Sport Climbing Men's Boulder & Lead. Individual Medals and Ranking". Paris Olympics 2024.
  12. ↑ "NEWSFLASH: Alphane, 9A, for Jakob Schubert". www.ukclimbing.com. 21 December 2023. Retrieved 9 August 2024.
  13. ↑ IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  14. 1 2 3 4 5 6 IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Schubert's profile and rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  15. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 "Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger". PlanetMountain. 28 September 2023. Retrieved 28 September 2023.
  16. ↑ "Instagram".
  17. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (2 January 2015). "Jakob Schubert ripete Fight or Flight 9b a Oliana in Spagna". Retrieved 19 February 2015.
  18. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (28 April 2011). "Jakob Schubert e Gabriele Moroni scatenati". Retrieved 22 December 2011.
  19. ↑ "Alasha - Jakob Schubert on Mallorca's hardest deep water solo lines Part 1". 20 July 2023.
  20. ↑ "Jakob Schubert - Lockdown to Rock-down". 26 May 2020.
  21. 1 2 up-climbing.com, ed. (3 January 2013). "Realizzazioni spagnole per Schubert e Midtboe". Retrieved 5 January 2013.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: deprecated archival service (link)
  22. ↑ up-climbing.com, ed. (27 November 2011). "9a per Jakob Schubert". Archived from the original on 26 December 2011. Retrieved 22 December 2011.
  23. ↑ up-climbing.com, ed. (2 June 2010). "Jakob Schubert – 9a". Archived from the original on 5 August 2024. Retrieved 22 December 2011.
  24. ↑ up-climbing.com, ed. (25 April 2011). "Jakob Schubert 8c onsight". Archived from the original on 7 March 2016. Retrieved 22 December 2011.
  25. ↑ "Jakob Schubert climbs Shaolin, 9A". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 10 February 2026.
  26. ↑ "Instagram". www.instagram.com. Retrieved 18 November 2025.
  27. ↑ "Instagram". www.instagram.com. Retrieved 21 December 2023.
  28. ↑ "Jakob Schubert flashes 8B+ boulder Catalan Witness the Fitness". PlanetMountain.com. 13 January 2018. Retrieved 29 March 2019.
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