Begampuri Saree
| Begampuri Saree | |
|---|---|
| Production area | |
| Details | |
| Invented | 16th–18th centuries |
| Origin place | Begampur, West Bengal, India |
| Ingredients | Cotton |
| Thread count | 1600-1800 (traditionally) 3400- 4000 |
| Length | 5.5–6.5 m (18–21 ft) |
| Style | Traditional cotton saree |
| Status | |
| GI Status | Registered |
| Application no. | 877 |
| Website | ipindia.gov.in |
Begampuri Saree (Bengali: বেগমপুরী শাড়ি) is a traditional handloom saree from the Indian state of West Bengal. Traditional Begaumpur designs were Matapar and Booty with varied broadness. The main body and the border of the saree are usually of contrasting colours. It is woven in Begampur and its adjoining areas in Hooghly district of West Bengal. In 2026, Begampuri sarees were recognized as a Geographical Indication product under the title 'Begampuri Saree' in Bengali and in English 'Begampuri Cotton Handloom Saree'.[1][2]
This saree is traditionally woven on a Khatkhti loom using 40S-60S cotton yarn, but is now also woven using 100S yarn. The number of wafts per inch in this saree is almost equal to the number of wefts per inch. Sarees have additional warp designs, for which wooden dobby is widely used, and currently jacquard is also being used. Depending on the complexity of the design, these cotton sarees can take anywhere from 1–2 to 6 days to weave.
The history of Begampuri sarees, woven on handlooms in the Hooghly district of West Bengal, dates back to the 16th century. According to the Ministry of Textiles, there were 400 registered weavers involved in Begampuri saree weaving in 2015.[3]
History
The Begampur saree from Hooghly district of West Bengal has a rich history, deeply intertwined with the heritage of the traditional weaving industry of the region. The handloom history of Begampuri saree traced back to 200-250 years ago, dobby and jacquard were not introduced to the fly shuttle looms.[4] The Begampuri saree may have originated during the Mughal era, when royal courts patronized skilled artisans and weavers for their craft.[5] Historical evidence of the expansion and influence of Mughal rule in these regions has been found, and also mention the Motaperey saree (wide-bordered saree) and its weavers of these also found mentioned in ancient texts.[5] The weaving industry in Begumpur began experimentally during the Mughal dynasty (1526-1761) and expanded during the British period (1858-1947). The development of weaving in this region was influenced by both Mughal patronage and the local cultural milieu.[6]
Features
This laborious process requires extraordinary skill and precision, and the weavers of Begampur have been passing down this ancient tradition from generation to generation. This weaving technique involves intricate weaving of warp yarns with weft yarns, creating beautiful designs and motifs on the fabric.
The weavers of Begampur use a type of frame loom, also known as the khatkati-tant in the region.[4] The Begumpuri saree is distinguished by its design and the presence of some types of weaving techniques, such as 'chiur' (patterns made with wooden strips).[7] The anchal may have some designs, which are made by making sheds with the help of bamboo rods and passing the weft through them.[8] Its wide border were often densely woven with two-colored threads, such as black and red, which made it stronger.
The Begampuri saree is known for its vibrant color combinations and a distinctive over-stretched thread groove design on the main body, anchal, and border. Narrow border are woven with various striped and patterned motif designs using dyed cotton yarn as the warp.[4]
Tool
Handlooms, dobby looms, and jacquard looms are used in the production of this saree.
| Handloom | Dobby | Jacquard | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Simple weave | Small geometric patterns | ||
| A handloom is a simple machine used for weaving. | A Dobby loom is a type of floor loom that controls the whole warp threads using a dobby head. | Mechanical looms, which simplify the process of making textiles with complex designs. | |
| Multiple shuttles could be used to control the colour of the weft during picking. |
References
- ↑ Saha, Ayantika (2 July 2026). "ঐতিহ্যের সুতোয় GI ট্যাগ, ফ্যাশন ট্রেন্ডে 'সুপারহিট' বঙ্গের বেগমপুরী, আশায় কারিগররা" [GI tag on traditional thread, 'superhit' fashion trend in Bengal's Begampuri, artisans hopeful]. Eisamay Online (in Bengali). Retrieved 27 July 2026.
২০২২ সালে এই শাড়ির GI স্বীকৃতির জন্য আবেদন করা হয়েছিল। তার চার বছর পরে এ বার, ২০২৬ সালে মিলল সেই স্বীকৃতি। ওয়েস্ট বেঙ্গল ন্যাশনাল জুডিশিয়াল সায়েন্স ইউনিভার্সিটির প্রাক্তন আধিকারিক পিনাকী ঘোষ বলেন, 'GI স্বীকৃতি দেওয়ার ক্ষেত্রে প্রধানত চার-পাঁচটি বিষয় খতিয়ে দেখা হয়। এর মধ্যে রয়েছে ওই শিল্পের ইতিহাস, সেটি কত বছরের পুরোনো, কেন এবং কী ভাবে শুরু হয়েছিল। এ ছাড়াও, বর্তমানে ওই শিল্প কতটা বিলুপ্তির পথে এবং তার ভৌগোলিক অবস্থান কী, তা লক্ষ্য করা হয়। সঙ্গে কতজন কারিগর এই শিল্পের সঙ্গের এর সঙ্গে যুক্ত, খতিয়ে দেখা হয় তা-ও।'
[An application was made for GI recognition for this saree in 2022. Four years later, this time in 2026, the recognition was granted. Pinaki Ghosh, a former official of the West Bengal National Judicial Science University, said, ‘There are mainly four or five factors that are examined when granting GI recognition. This includes the history of the industry, how old it is, why and how it started. In addition, the extent to which the industry is currently on the verge of extinction and its geographical location are noted. It is also investigated how many craftsmen are involved in this industry.’] - ↑ "মনোহরা ও তাঁতের শাড়ির বিশেষ স্বীকৃতি, আশায় ওঁরা" [Special recognition for Manohara and hand-woven saree, they are hopeful.]. Aanadabazar.com (in Bengali). ABP. Retrieved 27 July 2026.
বেগমপুর তাঁতে বোনা সুতির শাড়িও জিআই স্বীকৃতি পেয়েছে। বর্তমানে এখানকার শ'দুয়েক পরিবার এই তাঁত শিল্পের সঙ্গে জড়িত। এখানকার শাড়ি রাজ্য সরকারের বিশ্ব বাংলা ও বিভিন্ন বেসরকারি সংস্থায় পাঠানো হয় দেশের বিভিন্ন বুটিকের মাধ্যমে। আমেরিকা, দুবাই, অস্ট্রেলিয়ার মতো দেশেও রফতানি করা হয়। বেগমপুর হ্যান্ডলুম ক্লাস্টার ডেভেলপমেন্ট সোসাইটির ম্যানেজার শৈলকুমার কুন্ডু বলেন, আমাদের শাড়ি জিআই স্বীকৃতি পাওয়ায় আমরা খুশি। আমরা সরাসরি বিদেশে শাড়ি রফতানি করি না। রাজ্যের বিভিন্ন বুটিক আমাদের থেকে শাড়ি নিয়ে বিদেশে রফতানি করে। তাঁতিদের আশা, জিআই তকমায় ব্যবসারবহর বাড়বে।
[Begumpur's woven cotton sarees have also received GI recognition. Currently, about 200 families here are involved in this weaving industry. The sarees here are sent to the state government's Biswa Bangla and various private organizations through various boutiques in the country. They are also exported to countries like America, Dubai, and Australia. Shailkumar Kundu, manager of Begumpur Handloom Cluster Development Society, said, ‘‘We are happy that our sarees have received GI recognition. We do not export sarees directly abroad. Various boutiques in the state buy sarees from us and export them abroad. Weavers hope that the GI tag will increase their business.’’] - ↑ Kumar 2015, p. 39.
- 1 2 3 Ghosh 2022, p. 25.
- 1 2 Ghosh 2022, p. 2.
- ↑ Ghosh 2022, p. 5.
- ↑ Registry 2025, pp. 10.
- ↑ Registry 2025, pp. 10–11.
Sources
- Kumar, Alok (2015). Prayas (in English and Hindi). Development Commissioner (Handlooms). Retrieved 27 July 2026.
- Ghosh, Dr. Jayanta (19 April 2022). "GI Application Of Begampur Cotton Handloom Saree". Retrieved 27 July 2026.
- Registry, Geographical Indication (25 November 2025). "Part of Geographical Indications Journal 210 - G.I. APPLICATION NUMBER – 877". Internet Archive. Chennai: Geographical Indications Journal 210. Retrieved 28 July 2026.
External links
Media related to Begampuri sari at Wikimedia Commons