Vitaly Abalakov

Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov
Vitaly (right) with his brother Yevgeniy, 1920s
Born(1906-01-13)13 January 1906
Krasnoyarsk, Yeniseysk Governorate, Russian Empire
Died26 May 1986(1986-05-26) (aged 80)
Moscow, Russian SFSR, USSR
EducationD. Mendeleev University of Chemical Technology of Russia
Occupationschemical engineer, mountaineer and inventor

Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov (Russian: Вита́лий Миха́йлович Абала́ков) (13 January [O.S. 31 December] 1906 – 26 May 1986[1]) was a Soviet chemical engineer, mountaineer and inventor.

Brother of Yevgeniy Abalakov, another famous alpinist, he made the first Soviet ascent of Lenin Peak in 1934 and two more ascents of this mountain. In 1936 he also made the ascent of Khan Tengri, where he lost several fingers on one arm and one-third of his foot.[2]

In 1938, he and others from his team were arrested by NKVD and were under investigation until 1940. He was accused of "open public propaganda" of western mountaineering techniques and "diminishing" domestic alpinists' achievements and being a "German spy".[3]

Abalakov is credited with such inventions as camming devices in the 1930s, Abalakov thread (or V-thread), gearless ice climbing anchor, and many other climbing equipment innovations.[4][5] From 1938 to 1940, he was imprisoned under investigation as a “German spy”; while in custody, his teeth were knocked out. Many of the mountaineers arrested together with him were executed. On February 20, 1940, the case was closed.[6][7]

Awards

See also

Bibliography

References

  1. ↑ Great Russian Encyclopedia (2006), Moscow: Bol'shaya Rossiyskaya Enciklopediya Publisher, vol. 1, p. 9
  2. ↑ Royal Geographical Society, The Alpine Club (2011). Mountaineers. Dorling Kindersley Ltd. p. 240. ISBN 978-1-409-38331-4.
  3. ↑ "Расстрельное время". Retrieved 2023-01-24.
  4. ↑ Matt Samet (2011). The Climbing Dictionary: Mountaineering Slang, Terms, Neologisms & Lingo: An Illustrated Reference. The Mountaineers Books. p. 44. ISBN 978-1-594-85503-0.
  5. ↑ "Risk Online: Расстрельное время (ретро -обзор)". old.risk.ru. Retrieved 2024-12-28.
  6. ↑ "Risk Online: Расстрельное время (ретро -обзор)". old.risk.ru. Retrieved 2026-06-18.
  7. ↑ "Абалаков Виталий Михайлович (1906)". Открытый список (in Russian). Retrieved 2026-06-18.



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