Mingma Gyalje Sherpa

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Known as Mingma G, is a Nepalese mountaineer. He was part of the first winter ascent of K2 in January 2021 and he is the first Nepalese mountaineer, alongside Nirmal Purja, to climb all fourteen 8,000m mountains without using supplemental oxygen.

Early life

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa was born in the Rolwaling valley in Nepal. He grew up in a family of mountain guides with his Father, Grandfather and Uncle all being mountain guides.

Climbing career

Mingma Gyalje's climbing career began in 2006 with an attempt on Manaslu, the world's 8th highest mountain, as part of his uncle's expedition. He reached 7,300m. The following year he achieved his first successful summit of Mount Everest.

In April 2015 he summited Annapurna I whilst fixing ropes from Camp 1 to the summit.

First ascent of Chobutse's West Face

On 28 October 2015 Mingma G achieved the first ascent of Chobutse's West Face. He completed this climb solo. This ascent was the first new route to be established solo by a Nepalese climber. He named the route in memory of his deceased father, naming it the Dorjee Sherpa route.

2017

During 2017 Mingma G climbed five 8,000m mountains in a single calendar year. Dhaulagiri I on 30 April, Makalu on 14 May, K2 on 28 July, Broad Peak on 4 August and Nanga Parbat on 2 October. His ascent of Nanga Parbat was the first ever recorded summit of Nanga Parbat to occur during the Autumn Season. This was his second attempt on Nanga Parbat that year after an unsuccessful attempt in June.

K2 winter

Mingma Gyalje's first winter attempt on K2 was during the 2019–2020 season. The team was unable to progress beyond 6,600 metres.

During January 2021, Mingma G returned to K2. Mingma G was the leader of his team consisting of Kilu Pemba Sherpa and Dawa Tenjin Sherpa. Mingma G and his team united with a team led by Nirmal Purja to form a team consisting of ten elite Nepalese mountaineers. They successfully reached the summit on 16 January at 5pm local time.

The feat of climbing K2 during winter was regarded as 'one of the last great remaining challenges of mountaineering' because K2 was the last remaining 8,000m mountain to be climbed during the winter season. This was the first winter ascent of an 8,000m mountain to be completed by an all-Nepalese team.

Manaslu

On 27 September 2021 Mingma G pioneered a route to the true summit of Manaslu. Previously most climbers had ventured only to the fore summit.

Mingma Gyalje holds the record for the highest number of successful summits on Manaslu without using supplemental oxygen with 7 ascents.

14 peaks without supplemental oxygen

On 4 October 2024 Mingma Gyalje, alongside Nirmal Purja, became the first Nepalese mountaineers to summit all 8,000m mountains without using supplemental oxygen. They decided to reach the summit together after media reported them as competitors.

7 summits

On 27 December 2024, Mingma G completed the 7 Summits by summiting Aconcagua. This ascent meant Mingma G had climbed all 14 Peaks and 7 Summits without using supplemental oxygen.

Rescue operations

During 2023, Mingma G was part of a rescue team on Shishapangma after two avalanches occurred. Mingma was injured during the rescue operation after he fell from near camp 3.

In 2026, Mingma G was the leading member of a rescue and recovery team from the 2026 Broad Peak avalanche which killed 10 mountaineers. Mingma G was climbing K2 when he aborted his attempt on the mountain to locate other mountaineers on the nearby Broad Peak using drones. Mingma G then chose to carry out the recovery operation on foot after other teams aborted because of highly dangerous conditions and helicopters had been grounded because of severe weather. Mingma and his team recovered four bodies including his former climbing partners Nirmal Purja and Kili Pemba Sherpa.