Martine Rose

Martine Rose
Born (1980-11-24) 24 November 1980
Croydon, England.
EducationMiddlesex University
LabelMartine Rose
Websitewww.martine-rose.com

Martine Rose (born 24 November 1980) is a British-Jamaican menswear designer and founder of the Martine Rose label. Her designs draw inspiration from her experiences and interest in rave, hip-hop and punk subcultures.

Early life and education

Rose was born in Croydon, South London in 1980; her family is British and Jamaican.[1] Rose's mother was a nurse and her father was an accountant so she spent much of her time in Tooting with her grandmother and her cousins.[2] After a year at Camberwell College of Arts she enrolled at Middlesex University and graduated in 2002 with a degree in fashion design.[3]

Career

Rose first started a label LMNOP with now-stylist Tamara Rothstein, a friend and frequent collaborator.[4] The line folded in 2005. In 2007 she established her eponymous label focused on menswear.[5]

Since its inception, Rose has been known for showing her collections in non-traditional spaces, including a street market, a community climbing gym, and a cul-de-sac in Camden, London .[6] She has been known to disregard fashion's seasonal calendar and expectations, sometimes because of financial constraints.[7] Some of her collections have been released via short films,[8] digital lookbooks, and Craigslist.

In 2011 she was supported by new talent showcase Fashion East during London Fashion Week. She also collaborated with workwear boots manufacturer CAT on a limited line of boots.[9]

In 2015, when fashion designer Demna Gvesalia joined Balenciaga as creative director, he hired Rose as a consultant, elevating her profile in the fashion industry.[10]

In 2018 Rose released a collaboration with Nike. The release included Rose's take on the tracksuit and Nike's Monarch model. She was inspired by English and American sports culture.[11] The collection was released on Craigslist in London and later sold at retailers.[12]

Her AW20 show took place at Torriano Primary School, her daughter's primary school in Kentish Town.[13]

In 2021, the brand accelerator Tomorrow acquired a 60 per cent stake in Martine Rose through a share-swap agreement that also gave Rose an undisclosed interest in Tomorrow. The partnership was intended to help the label expand its supplier network, wholesale distribution and direct-to-consumer business. [14]

In January 2023, Rose was a guest designer at Pitti Uomo in Florence, where she presented her Autumn/Winter 2023 collection. The event marked the first time she had shown a collection outside London. [15]

By June 2023, the company employed 20 people and was carried by approximately 200 retailers.[16]

n January 2026, Rose presented her Autumn/Winter 2026 menswear collection during Paris Fashion Week.[17] In March 2026, Rose cancelled production of the collection despite what she described as a successful sales season.[18][19] Tomorrow Ltd, which held a majority stake in Rose's label, subsequently disputed that production had been cancelled and said that it would proceed as planned.[20] Later that month, Tomorrow Ltd agreed to be sold to Progetto 11, the parent company of Italian e-commerce business The Level Group. The financial terms were not disclosed. The Business of Fashion reported that Rose had previously submitted a bid to regain control of her label, but that the bid had not been accepted by Tomorrow.[20]

Design

As a designer, Rose counts her upbringing around her older British-Jamaican cousins who were into raves, reggae, Lovers rock, punk, and dance music as formative.[21] Rose has been influenced by her own experiences at 90s London raves and her awareness of different subcultures in the city coming together around music.[22] Overall, she considers her Jamaican upbringing as a major influence in her attitude towards fashion design and style.[23]

Rose's label developed a cult following, with her designs featuring exaggerated proportions quickly becoming characteristic of her collections earlier on in her career. While considered a menswear designer, Rose designs her pieces with a broad spectrum of people in mind.[24] Her interest in nightlife and music scenes has led her to use fabrics in menswear that are typically more common in womenswear, like fur, satin and lurex.[25]

Awards

2023: British Menswear Designer of the Year at the Fashion Awards.[26][27]

References

  1. ↑ SSENSE (2017-05-03). "Out of Obscurity". ssense. Retrieved 2020-11-12.
  2. ↑ "Meet Martine Rose: the designer standing out from the fashion crowd". Evening Standard. 2019-09-11. Retrieved 2020-11-12.
  3. ↑ Fisher, Alice (2017-10-22). "Menswear designer Martine Rose: 'Fashion used to be for outsiders'". The Observer. ISSN 0029-7712. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  4. ↑ "The Gentlewoman – Martine Rose". thegentlewoman.co.uk. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  5. ↑ "Martine ROSE — About". Martine Rose. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  6. ↑ "The slow-burning rise of Martine Rose". Vogue Business. 7 June 2019. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  7. ↑ "The slow-burning rise of Martine Rose". Vogue Business. 7 June 2019. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  8. ↑ Dazed (2016-01-10). "Martine Rose returns with Sharna Osborne-directed film". Dazed. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  9. ↑ Dazed (2011-07-12). "Martine Rose x CAT Boots". Dazed. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  10. ↑ "The slow-burning rise of Martine Rose". Vogue Business. 7 June 2019. Retrieved 2020-12-09.
  11. ↑ "Martine Rose Explains Her Unorthodox Nike Collaboration". Highsnobiety. 2018-12-11. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  12. ↑ "The Martine Rose x Nike Collaboration Has a Release Date". Highsnobiety. 2019-01-06. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
  13. ↑ Petty, Felix. "Martine Rose goes back to school for AW20". i-D. Retrieved 19 April 2021.
  14. ↑ "Tomorrow Acquires Majority Stake in Martine Rose Label". The Business of Fashion. 22 October 2021. Retrieved 23 August 2026.
  15. ↑ Toner, Paul (13 January 2023). "Martine Rose: Menswear AW23 At Pitti Uomo". 10 Magazine. Retrieved 23 August 2026.
  16. ↑ Maguire, Lucy (11 June 2023). "All killer, no filler: Menswear star Martine Rose is ready for growth". Vogue Business. Retrieved 22 August 2026.
  17. ↑ Leung, Zoe (21 January 2026). "Martine Rose FW26 Is Silly Yet Serious". Hypebeast. Retrieved 23 August 2026.
  18. ↑ Salamone, Lorenzo (5 March 2026). "Why did Martine Rose have to cancel production of her latest collection?". nss magazine. Retrieved 23 August 2026.
  19. ↑ Doric, Katarina (5 March 2026). "Martine Rose Cancels Fall Winter 2026 Production as Changes Hit Tomorrow Group". Design Scene. Retrieved 23 August 2026.
  20. 1 2 Williams, Robert (20 March 2026). "Tomorrow Ltd Sold to The Level Group's Owners". The Business of Fashion. Retrieved 23 August 2026.
  21. ↑ "Martine Rose is designing for the 'dodgy' man of her dreams, one piece at a time". Document Journal. 2018-06-11. Retrieved 2020-11-30.
  22. ↑ SSENSE (2017-05-03). "Out of Obscurity". ssense. Retrieved 2020-11-30.
  23. ↑ "Martine Rose is designing for the 'dodgy' man of her dreams, one piece at a time". Document Journal. 2018-06-11. Retrieved 2020-12-09.
  24. ↑ "Martine Rose is designing for the 'dodgy' man of her dreams, one piece at a time". Document Journal. 2018-06-11. Retrieved 2020-11-30.
  25. ↑ Dazed (2014-01-07). "EXCLUSIVE: Martine Rose AW14 collection". Dazed. Retrieved 2020-11-30.
  26. ↑ "Jonathan Anderson, Martine Rose and Sarah Burton among winners at the star-studded Fashion Awards". Vogue. 4 December 2023. Retrieved 26 March 2024.
  27. ↑ "Fashion Awards 2023 : qui sont les grands noms de la mode du palmarès à connaître ?". Madmoizelle. 5 December 2023. Retrieved 26 March 2024.
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