Manteco

Manteco S.p.A.
TypeSocietà per azioni
IndustryTextiles
Founded1943
FounderEnzo Anacleto Mantellassi
HeadquartersMontemurlo, Prato, Italy
Key people
Franco Mantellassi (Chairman),
Marco Mantellassi (co-CEO),
Matteo Mantellassi (co-CEO)
ProductsWool fabrics
Revenue~€99 million (2024)[1]
Websitemanteco.com

Manteco is an Italian textile company headquartered in Montemurlo, in the Prato textile district. Founded in 1943, the company produces high-end fabrics with a core focus on recycled and low-impact wool fibers.[2][3]

History

The company's origins date to 1941, when founder Enzo Anacleto Mantellassi acquired a semi-destroyed spinning mill in Prato and began producing recycled wool yarn from reclaimed military blankets and garments during World War II.[4] The business was formally established in 1943 as Lanificio San Marco, when Mantellassi purchased looms and began producing woven fabrics.[5]

Following the founder's death in 1967, leadership passed to his son Franco Mantellassi. In 2000, Franco's sons Marco and Matteo Mantellassi became co-CEOs.[5]

In December 2023, Manteco acquired the spinning mill Casentino Lane, a carded spinning facility in Bibbiena (Arezzo) employing 27 workers, to vertically integrate its production. The acquisition added approximately 700,000 kg of annual yarn capacity.[6][7]

Products

The company's main products are fabrics made from two proprietary fibers:

MWool is a mechanically recycled wool fiber in which color is obtained by blending pre-dyed reclaimed fibers rather than dyeing new material. A life cycle assessment (LCA) published in the journal Resources found significant reductions in environmental impact compared to generic virgin wool across indicators including climate change, water use, and energy consumption.[8] The fiber holds an Environmental Product Declaration (EPD).[9]

ReviWool is a virgin wool fiber made from co-product fibers recovered during the worsting process. A dedicated LCA published in the Journal of Cleaner Production reported reductions in climate change impact, water use, and energy consumption compared to conventional virgin wool tops.[10][11]

Research collaborations

The company conducts research with several academic institutions, including the Polytechnic University of Turin, the University of Leeds, and the University of Trieste.[5]

A 2024 study with the University of Leeds, published in Cleaner Engineering and Technology, found that wool fabrics can be mechanically recycled in a closed loop up to six times while retaining quality suitable for high-end production, provided fibers maintain a minimum length of 20 mm.[12] Other peer-reviewed studies have addressed the marine biodegradability of recycled wool fibers.[13]

Operations

Supply chain

Manteco's production relies on a network of over 56 partner companies within the Prato textile district, operating at short range. Il Sole 24 Ore reported in 2018 that Manteco supported 56 small local suppliers within this system.[14] In 2024, Corriere della Sera described the network as an operation aimed at preserving the local artisanal supply chain.[15]

Financial performance

Revenue grew from €20 million to approximately €91 million over the decade ending in 2019.[16] After a pandemic-related decline, revenue recovered to €78 million in 2021[17] and reached approximately €97 million in 2022.[16] Revenue remained stable at around €99 million in 2024.[1]

Market presence

The company supplies fabrics to international fashion brands. It engages in co-branding, providing a dedicated label for garments made with its materials.[18] Clients include luxury groups such as LVMH, Kering, Ralph Lauren and Moncler, as well as retailers including Inditex.[19][20]

Industry initiatives

Manteco is a member of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's Network, having joined in November 2021.[21] The company is also a signatory to a UNECE sustainability pledge on traceability in the textile sector.[22]

In 2018, the company launched Manteco Academy, an educational programme for fashion students and professionals focused on circular design and sustainability.[23]

Recognition

The company has received several industry awards. In 2018, it was included in the London Stock Exchange Group's "1000 Companies to Inspire Europe" report.[24] In 2023, the German trade publication TextilWirtschaft awarded Manteco its Forum Preis, citing the company's innovation and creativity within a family-run structure.[25] Also in 2023, it received the Climate Action Award at the CNMI (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) Sustainable Fashion Awards, held at Teatro alla Scala.[26][27] That same year, it received the "Top 100 Performance" prize at the Sustainability Award, promoted by Kon Group and ALTIS Università Cattolica.[28] In 2024, it was named Industria Felix as one of the 100 most competitive companies in Central Italy.[29] Also in 2024, the non-profit Textile Exchange named Manteco its Climate Project of the Year.[30][31]

See also

References

  1. 1 2 "Manteco vede la ripresa dopo un 2024 stabile a 99 milioni di euro, con USA, Europa e Asia a trainare". FashionNetwork (Italy) (in Italian). 13 February 2025. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  2. ↑ "A Wool Recycling Tradition Offers Lessons for Fast Fashion". Bloomberg. 6 July 2023. Retrieved 2 September 2025.
  3. ↑ "Can Made in Italy withstand climate change?". Vogue Business. 7 November 2024. Retrieved 2 September 2025.
  4. ↑ "Manteco, un viaggio nella creazione del tessuto in lana riciclata tra tradizione e innovazione [Manteco, a journey into the creation of recycled wool fabric between tradition and innovation]". FashionNetwork (Italy) (in Italian). 29 January 2024. Retrieved 2 September 2025.
  5. 1 2 3 "Timeline". Manteco Sustainability Report 2024 (PDF) (Report). Manteco S.p.A. p. 18. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  6. ↑ Galbiati, Laura (11 January 2024). "Italian textiles producer Manteco buys Casentino Lane". FashionNetwork. Retrieved 2 September 2025.
  7. ↑ Pieraccini, Silvia (9 January 2024). "Il lanificio pratese Manteco acquisisce filatura in Casentino". T24 Economia (in Italian). Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  8. ↑ Bianco, Isabella; Gerboni, Raffaella; Picerno, Giuseppe; Blengini, Gian Andrea (2022). "Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of MWool® Recycled Wool Fibers". Resources. 11 (5): 41. doi:10.3390/resources11050041.
  9. ↑ "MWool® – Recycled wool yarn (S-P-05830)". The International EPD System. Retrieved 2 September 2025.
  10. ↑ Bianco, Isabella; Picerno, Giuseppe; Blengini, Gian Andrea (2023). "Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of Worsted and Woollen processing in wool production: ReviWool® noils and other wool co-products". Journal of Cleaner Production. 415. doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2023.137877.
  11. ↑ "ReviWool® – Low-impact virgin wool fabric (S-P-09428)". The International EPD System. Retrieved 2 September 2025.
  12. ↑ Glasper, M.J.; Picerno, G.; Tausif, M.; Russell, S.J. (2024). "Closed loop mechanical recyclability of post-consumer waste wool fabrics based on fibre length retention". Cleaner Engineering and Technology. 22. doi:10.1016/j.clet.2024.100720.
  13. ↑ Bianco, Isabella; et al. (2023). "Marine biodegradability and ecotoxicity of MWool® recycled wool fibers: A circular-economy-based material". Oceans. 4 (1): 88–100. doi:10.3390/oceans4010009.
  14. ↑ "Lanificio Manteco supporta 56 piccoli fornitori Insieme per il lusso green [Lanificio Manteco supports 56 small suppliers Together for green luxury]". Il Sole 24 Ore (in Italian). 10 November 2018. Retrieved 2 September 2025.
  15. ↑ "Manteco investe sulla filiera: «Così preserviamo il made in Italy (e la fiducia dei brand)»". Corriere della Sera (in Italian). 16 January 2024. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  16. 1 2 "L'anima circolare premia i conti di Manteco. Fatturato a 97 mln". Pambianco News (in Italian). 2 February 2023. Retrieved 26 January 2026.
  17. ↑ "Manteco, il fatturato sale a 78 mln €". Pambianco News (in Italian). 4 February 2022. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  18. ↑ "Texworld and Première Vision Had Visitors Touching Fabric at Last". WWD. 15 February 2022. Retrieved 2 September 2025.
  19. ↑ "Manteco, sostenibilidad 'made in Prato' para conquistar al lujo y al 'fast fashion'". Modaes (in Spanish). 11 December 2019. Retrieved 26 January 2026.
  20. ↑ Astorri, Marcello (17 May 2024). "Manteco tra le stelle del Made in Italy". il Giornale. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  21. ↑ "New Members join the Foundation's Network". Ellen MacArthur Foundation. November 2021. Retrieved 26 January 2026.
  22. ↑ "The Sustainability Pledge - Three years on: Monitoring Report on Traceability and Transparency in the Textile and Leather Sector" (PDF). UNECE. June 2024. Retrieved 2 September 2025.
  23. ↑ "Textile, eight decades ahead: Manteco's sustainable example". I'M Firenze Digest. 4 April 2022. Retrieved 2 September 2025.
  24. ↑ "1000 Companies to Inspire Europe 2018" (PDF). London Stock Exchange Group. Retrieved 2 September 2025.
  25. ↑ "64. Forum der TextilWirtschaft: Forum-Preise der TextilWirtschaft verliehen". TextilWirtschaft (in German). 15 May 2023. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  26. ↑ "Sustainable Fashion Awards 2023 – Premi". Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (in Italian). Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  27. ↑ "Cnmi Sustainable Fashion Awards, premiati Gucci, Versace e Manteco". Corriere della Sera (in Italian). 25 September 2023. Retrieved 2 September 2025.
  28. ↑ "Sustainability Award 2023 – Cerimonia di premiazione". Sustainability Award (in Italian). Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  29. ↑ "Industria Felix, premiate le 100 imprese più competitive del Centro Italia e delle Isole". Industria Felix Magazine (in Italian). 10 May 2024. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  30. ↑ "Manteco vince il 'Climate Project of the Year' per la sostenibilità". Pambianco News (in Italian). 6 November 2024. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  31. ↑ "Textile Exchange announces the winners of the 2024 Climate and Nature Impact Awards". Textile Exchange. 13 November 2024. Retrieved 2 September 2025.
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