Herbert Levine (company)

Herbert Levine
Founded1948
FounderHerbert and Beth Levine
HeadquartersNew York
ProductsShoes
Websitewww.herbertlevine.com

Herbert Levine is an American luxury shoe label founded in 1948 by Herbert Levine and his wife Beth.

History

The Herbert Levine label was named after former journalist Herbert. His wife, Beth, was the primary shoe designer of the label. She designed the footwear while Herbert handled the factory management, sales, and marketing.[1][2]

Herbert Levine, Inc. established its first factory on 31 West 31st Street in New York in January 1949. The factory started with a production of 400 pairs of shoes a week; by 1954, it had 200 employees producing 5,000 pair of shoes a week. In 1975, Herbert Levine, Inc. was still making 900 pairs of shoes a day.

Herbert Levine shoes were distributed in numerous boutiques and high-end department stores across the United States and Canada, including Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Joseph and Bonwit Teller. Herbert Levine shoes were also the first American shoes to be carried overseas by retailers such as Galeries Lafayette in Paris and Harrods in London.

Herbert Levine is widely credited as the first label to have introduced boots into Haute Couture.[3][4] As early as 1953, Herbert Levine introduced a calf-length boot in white kidskin,[5] which sold poorly. Most retailers saw boots as a separate category of footwear from shoes, to be worn for protection from bad weather or for work. By contrast, Herbert Levine argued that boots were shoes and could be an integral part of a woman's outfit. In 1957, Herbert Levine produced an entire collection built around fashion boots,[6] and despite widespread skepticism on the part of other designers and manufacturers,[7] calf-high, kitten-heeled fashion boots for women began to grow in popularity in the late 1950s and early 1960s.

In the 1950s, Herbert Levine advertisements were drawn by famous New York illustrator Saul Steinberg and were regularly published in The New Yorker and in Harper's Bazaar. In 1980, Andy Warhol photographed a series of Herbert Levine shoes.[8]

Mr. and Mrs. Levine were hired in 1965, along with famed couturier Emilio Pucci and designer Alexander Girard, to help overhaul a new look and style for Braniff International Airways. The campaign, developed by Jack Tinker and partner Mary Wells Lawrence, was dubbed The End Of The Plain Plane, and was a revolutionary airline overhaul that had never before been attempted. The campaign was considered one of the most successful advertising and image reworks in history.

Closed in 1975, the label was revived in 2025 through a partnership between heritage brand investment company Luvanis, Milan- and New York-based distributor Massimo Bonini, and former Dsquared2 CEO Gianfranco Maccarrone, with footwear designer Trevor Houston appointed as creative director.[9][10] Houston—previously head of footwear at Khaite after positions at Marc Jacobs, Coach, The Row and Tory Burch, and an avid collector of vintage Herbert Levine pieces—was identified by the new owners through interviews discussing his personal archive.[11] The first collection debuted at New York Fashion Week in February 2025 and reached stores in September, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Harrods, Le Bon Marché and Mytheresa; production was relocated to Italy's Marche region, and the inaugural campaigns were photographed by Mark Borthwick.[12][13]

Description

The Herbert Levine label gained media notoriety for outlandish designs: gilded wood platforms, slippers with newspaper, money, or candy-wrapper covered fabrics, Astroturf insoles, and shoes that were glued onto the wearer's nylon stockings. Herbert Levine's greatest influence was re-introducing boots to women's fashion in the 1960s and the popularization of the shoe style known as mules.[14][15]

Several major fashion designers have publicly acknowledged Beth Levine's influence on their work. Manolo Blahnik called her "without a doubt the most influential American shoe designer of the 20th century," adding: "She is to shoes what Eames is to furniture."[16] Christian Louboutin described her as "an influential free spirit" whose "refreshing work" came "from pure fun and pleasure."[16] Azzedine Alaïa, for whom Beth Levine designed several shoes over the years, called her "one of the most important people working in shoes," with designs that were "highly imaginative, strong and modern."[17][15]

Designs

Herbert Levine's "Race Car Shoe," "Barefoot in the Grass," and "Paper Twist" shoes
  • On A Roll (1952). The shoe's unusual rolled heel is a highlight of the label.[18]
  • Ballin' The Jack / Spring-o-Lator (1952). Mules in which an elastic strip allowed the wearer to keep the shoes securely on while wearing stockings, despite the lack of any straps at the side or back of the shoes. Through much of the 1950s and 1960s a wide range of shoe designers used Herbert Levine's Spring-o-Lators in their own shoe lines.[19]
  • No-Shoe (1957). This unique design reduced footwear to its most essential element — the sole — which was treated as a decorative abstract shape. The topless shoes were designed on a dare from Stanley Marcus. While they were in fact functional (secured to the foot with adhesive pads), the form has more importance as a theoretical exercise than as a significant fashion. The "No-Shoe" was the culmination of the brand's exploration of the transparent shoe concept, spearheaded by the Cinderella shoe; the effect is of a bared, tiptoeing foot — nature supported by artifice.[20]
  • Aladdin's Lamp (1959). Emulating the shape of Aladdin's magic oil lamp, this shoe was designed by Beth Levine at the request of Diana Vreeland, then fashion editor of Harper's Bazaar, who wanted a shoe with a low heel, turned up at the toe, open yet closed, and with jewels on it.[21]
  • Barefoot in the Grass (1966). The "Barefoot in the Grass" sandals — made of an AstroTurf insole, a vinyl vamp, and a green kid heel — were a witty use of contemporary and unexpected materials. When those sandals were worn, the grass was supposed to go with you.[22]
  • Race Car Shoe (1967). First designed for the wife of one of the drivers in the 1967 Indianapolis 500, the Race Car Shoe was produced in many versions over the years, including evening shoes with windshields and headlights. It was featured in the 1967 movie Sole Art as well as in a full editorial spread in Harper's Bazaar in March 1967. Prada also drew inspiration from classic American cars for its Spring 2012 shoe collection — the resulting hot-rod heels with headlights and chrome bore a striking resemblance to Levine's Race Car Shoe.[23][24]
  • Paper Twist (1967). Appearing in a special feature of Harper's Bazaar (July 1967), "Paper Twist" shoes were designed by Kathryn Stoll for Herbert Levine. The series was composed of brightly colored, double-faced laminated paper strips twisted into exquisite swirls and multicolour bands that flexed on composition soles.[25]
  • Scarf Shoe (1968). Immortalized by a legendary photograph by Guy Bourdin published in Harper's Bazaar in 1968, the "Scarf Shoe" is an iconic model of the Herbert Levine line. Each "Scarf Shoe" — a free-flowing stocking based on a solid sole — covered the leg with long streamers in yards of silk chiffon, wrapping the body upward from a jewelled heel.[26]
  • Lunar Boot (1969). A series of space-age boots created to coincide with the landing of Apollo 11 on the moon on July 20, 1969. The Lunar Boot was made of reflective space-suit material — a collaboration between Beth Levine and Sara Little Turnbull, an innovative product designer who was then collaborating with NASA.

Celebrity clients

First Ladies

The house of Herbert Levine served United States First Ladies Jackie Kennedy, Mamie Eisenhower, Lady Bird Johnson, and Patricia Nixon in the 1960s and early 1970s.

Herbert Levine made black velvet knee-high boots for Mamie Eisenhower as well as most of her pumps. For Jackie Kennedy, Herbert Levine custom-made a pair of thigh-high boots in burlap with a stacked heel, as well as many of the flats that became a signature element of the Jackie Kennedy style.

Stars and socialites

In addition to the popularity of the label with Presidents' wives, Herbert Levine shoes were also a favorite of Broadway stars, movie stars, and socialites. Some of the brand’s famous clients included Barbra Streisand, Marlene Dietrich, Marilyn Monroe, Dinah Shore, Janis Paige, Jane Fonda, Joanne Woodward, Joan Crawford, Lauren Bacall, Barbara Walters, Julie Andrews, Rita Hayworth, Peggy Lee, Cyd Charisse, Joan Collins, Cher, Linda Evans, Babe Paley, Rosemary Clooney, Betty Grable, Gladys Knight, Natalie Wood, Debbie Reynolds, Arlene Francis, Phyllis Diller, Helen Hayes, Chita Rivera, Joan Sutherland, Gwen Verdon, Liv Ullmann, Agnes de Mille, Carol Channing, Ali MacGraw, Barbara Hale, and Angela Lansbury.[27]

Marilyn Monroe wore Herbert Levine shoes both in her private and public life. Visiting Bement on August 9, 1955, Marilyn wore a pair of Herbert Levine's Spring-o-Lators, immortalized by many pictures, notably the series taken by photojournalist Eve Arnold. In 1957, Marilyn purchased Herbert Levine red stilettos (size 7AA) from the Vogue shop in Montreal; those shoes are now part of the Bata Shoe Museum collection in Toronto.[28]

Marlene Dietrich ordered many custom pairs of the so-called "Gigi Stocking Shoes" (in size 7 1/2B), and inspired the "Marlene Boot" line of the label, named for her famous legs. Joan Crawford was a fan of Herbert Levine's Cinderella shoes. She had those Vinylite shoes custom made by Herbert Levine because "she loved to see her feet."[29]

Following the brand's revival, with Trevor Houston as creative director, contemporary figures who have worn Herbert Levine shoes include Odessa A'zion,[30][11] Gwendoline Christie,[31][32][33] Emilia Clarke,[34][11] Katie Holmes,[35][36][37] Tracee Ellis Ross,[11] Chase Sui Wonders,[38] and Venus Williams.[39]

Awards

Museums and Retrospectives

Herbert Levine in Museums

Herbert Levine shoes are in the collections of more than 20 museums around the world, including the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (which owns around 140 pairs),[47] the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York,[48] the Philadelphia Museum of Art,[49] the Miami Shoe Museum,[50] the Los Angeles County Museum of Art,[51] the ASU FIDM Museum in Los Angeles,[52] the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London,[53] the Kyoto Costume Institute in Japan, and the Powerhouse Museum in Sydney.[54][55]

Retrospectives on Beth and Herbert Levine

References

  1. 1 2 "Herbert Levine, 75, Manufacturer of High-Fashion Women's Shoes". The New York Times. 10 August 1991.
  2. 1 2 "High-Fashion Shoe Designer Herbert Levine Dies at 75". The Washington Post. 12 August 1991.
  3. ↑ Verin, Helene (2009). Beth Levine Shoes. New York: Stewart, Tabori & Chang. p. 43. ISBN 978-1-58479-759-3.
  4. ↑ "Beth Levine, First Lady of Shoes". Dexigner. 23 November 2009. Archived from the original on 12 August 2014. Retrieved 10 July 2010.
  5. ↑ "Accession # 1977.287.14a, b: Herbert Levine white boots, 1952". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 10 July 2010.
  6. ↑ "Accession # 1976.166.12a, b: Herbert Levine fashion boots, 1958-60". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 10 July 2010.
  7. ↑ Sheppard, Eugenia (22 August 1967), "Shoes, Like Sundials, Tell Time", Hartford Courant
  8. ↑ Dedet, Frédérique (13 March 2026). "Herbert Levine, le retour du chausseur préféré de Marilyn". Les Echos. Retrieved 5 March 2026.
  9. ↑ "Exclusive: Herbert Levine Relaunch Puts Iconic New York Shoe Brand Back in the Spotlight". Footwear News. 18 February 2025. Retrieved 5 March 2026.
  10. ↑ "Herbert Levine is back with twisted shoes for the 21st century". Vogue Business. 2 September 2025. Retrieved 5 March 2026.
  11. 1 2 3 4 Mzizi, Yola (9 April 2026). "The Heir to a Legacy of Glamorous Shoes". The New York Times.
  12. ↑ Silbert, Jake (2 September 2025). "Herbert Levine is back with twisted shoes for the 21st century". Vogue. Retrieved 5 March 2026.
  13. ↑ "How Sabrina and Massimo Bonini Turned Their Passion Into a Powerhouse Footwear Showroom". Women's Wear Daily. 3 December 2025. Retrieved 5 March 2026.
  14. ↑ "Beth Levine — Shoes". The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  15. 1 2 Blazio-Licorish, Tonya (20 March 2026). "From the Archive: Beth Levine's Groundbreaking Footwear Designs". Footwear News.
  16. 1 2 Verin, Helene (2009). Beth Levine Shoes. Stewart, Tabori & Chang.
  17. ↑ Corcoran, Cate T. (22 September 2006). "Obituary: Shoe Innovator Beth Levine, 91". WWD.
  18. ↑ "Accession #1977.287.20: Herbert Levine On A Roll shoes, 1960". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 25 July 2010.
  19. ↑ "Accession #1973.276.24a, b: Herbert Levine Ballin' The Jack shoes, 1952". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 25 July 2010. "Accession #1973.276.1: Herbert Levine Ballin' The Jack shoes, 1952". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 25 July 2010. "Accession #1973.276.2: Herbert Levine Ballin' The Jack shoes, 1952". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 25 July 2010. "Accession #1977.287.37a, b: Herbert Levine Ballin' The Jack shoes, 1955". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 25 July 2010.
  20. ↑ "Accession #2009.300.3917a, b: Herbert Levine No-Shoe, 1957". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 25 July 2010.
  21. ↑ "Accession #1977.287.19a, b: Herbert Levine Aladdin's Lamp shoes, 1959". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 25 July 2010.
  22. ↑ "Accession #1976.166.7a, b: Herbert Levine Barefoot in the Grass, 1966". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 25 July 2010.
  23. ↑ "Accession #1977.276.29a, b: Herbert Levine Race Car shoes, 1959". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 25 July 2010.
  24. ↑ Ramzi, Lilah (11 July 2013). "Prada and Herbert Levine Bring New Meaning to the Term 'Driving Shoe'". Fashionista. Retrieved 2017-11-16.
  25. ↑ "Accession #1975.295.12a, b: Herbert Levine Paper Twist shoes, ca 1968". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 25 July 2010.
  26. ↑ "Accession #1977.287.1a, b: Herbert Levine Scarf Shoe, 1968". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 25 July 2010.
  27. ↑ List of clients cited in Helene Verin, Beth Levine Shoes, Steward, Tabori & Chang, 2009, p. 48-50.
  28. ↑ "Footwear from famous people - Marilyn Monroe's Herbert Levine red leather stiletto shoes". The Bata Shoe Museum. Archived from the original on 1 January 2011. Retrieved 25 February 2011.
  29. ↑ Beth Levine, interview by Nancy Pollock, January 4, 2000.
  30. ↑ Hirschberg, Lynn (7 January 2026). "Odessa A'zion Was Born for This Moment". W Magazine.
  31. ↑ "Met Gala 2026: Gwendoline Christie Carries Mirror Mask of Her Own Face". The Hollywood Reporter. 5 May 2026.
  32. ↑ "Gwendoline Christie Brings the Drama to the 2026 Met Gala With Costume Mask of Her Own Face". Town & Country. 5 May 2026.
  33. ↑ "Getting Ready With Gwendoline Christie in Giles Deacon for the 2026 Met Gala". WWD. 5 May 2026.
  34. ↑ "Emilia Clarke Brings The Row's Quiet Luxury to 'Ponies' Premiere". WWD. 15 January 2026.
  35. ↑ "Katie Holmes Slides Into Spring/Summer Glove Shoes". Vogue. April 2026.
  36. ↑ "Katie Holmes Slides Into Minimalist Slingback Heels for the 2026 AAFA American Image Awards". Footwear News. 22 April 2026.
  37. ↑ "Katie Holmes Makes Glove Shoes the Star of Red Carpet Fashion and Celebrity Style". Fashion Times. April 2026.
  38. ↑ "Celebrity Shoe Looks at the 2026 Tiffany Blue Book Gala". Footwear News. April 2026.
  39. ↑ Tappan, Lauren (4 May 2026). "Venus Williams Serves Up a Winning Swarovski Look at the 2026 Met Gala". Marie Claire.
  40. ↑ "Pat Nixon's Herbert Levine shoes - The First Ladies at the Smithsonian". National Museum of American History. Retrieved 25 February 2011.
  41. ↑ "NM Awards". Neiman Marcus.
  42. ↑ Verin, Helene (2009). Beth Levine Shoes. New York: Stewart, Tabori & Chang. ISBN 978-1-58479-759-3.
  43. ↑ "Dairyman's Daughter to Receive Coveted Neiman-Marcus 'Oscar' at Fashion Show". Sweetwater Reporter. Vol. 57, no. 197. Sweetwater, Texas. United Press. 22 August 1954.
  44. ↑ Taylor, Angela (30 June 1967). "Coty's Winnie Given to Oscar". The New York Times.
  45. ↑ Wilson, Eric (23 September 2006). "Beth Levine, 'First Lady of Shoe Design,' Is Dead at 91". The New York Times.
  46. ↑ Blazio-Licorish, Tonya (20 March 2026). "From the Archive: Beth Levine's Groundbreaking Footwear Designs". Footwear News.
  47. ↑ Krick, Jessa (October 2004). "Shoes in The Costume Institute". Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  48. ↑ Steele, Valerie; Hill, Colleen; et al. (2023). Shoes A-Z: The Collection of The Museum at FIT. Taschen. ISBN 978-3-8365-9624-4.
  49. ↑ "Woman's 'Magnet' Sandals, 1950s". Philadelphia Museum of Art.
  50. ↑ "Herbert Levine". Miami Shoe Museum.
  51. ↑ "Beth Levine, Woman's Shoes, 1964". Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
  52. ↑ "Beth Levine's Kabuki Shoes". ASU FIDM Museum.
  53. ↑ "Pair of Shoes". Victoria and Albert Museum. 1974.
  54. ↑ "Pair of womens boots by Beth Levine". Powerhouse Museum.
  55. ↑ Verin, Helene (2009). Beth Levine Shoes. New York: Stewart, Tabori & Chang. ISBN 978-1-58479-759-3.
  56. ↑ "Opening van Beth Levine : First Lady of Shoes". Nederlands Leder & Schoenen Museum. Archived from the original on 24 July 2011. Retrieved 25 February 2011.
  57. ↑ "Beth Levine : First Lady of Shoes". Bellevue Arts Museum. Archived from the original on 9 June 2010. Retrieved 25 February 2011.
  58. ↑ "Currently Hanging: Beth Levine, First Lady of Shoes". The Strangler. Retrieved 25 February 2011.
  59. ↑ "The Long Island Museum | Beth Levine". longislandmuseum.org. Retrieved 2017-11-16.
  60. ↑ Jacobson, Aileen (2015-10-15). "Exploring Beth Levine's High-Fashion Footwear at the Long Island Museum". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2017-11-16.
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