Erin McNeice

Erin McNeice
OLY
Erin McNeice, London 2026
Personal information
NicknameErin McBeast[1][2]
NationalityBritish
Born (2004-04-06) 6 April 2004[3][4]
Rodmersham, Kent, England[4]
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height165 cm (5 ft 5 in)
Climbing career
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing  Great Britain
World Cup (Overall)
Winner2025Lead
World Cup
Gold medal – first placeBali 2025Lead
Gold medal – first placeBern 2025Bouldering
Gold medal – first placeWujiang 2025Lead
Gold medal – first placeMadrid 2026Bouldering
Silver medal – second placeInnsbruck 2026Bouldering
Silver medal – second placePrague 2026Bouldering
Silver medal – second placeBern 2026Bouldering
Bronze medal – third placeSeoul 2024Bouldering
Bronze medal – third placeChamonix 2025Lead
Bronze medal – third placeInnsbruck 2025Lead
Bronze medal – third placeKeqiao 2025Bouldering

Erin McNeice OLY (born 6 April 2004) is an English rock climber who specialises in competition climbing. She represented Great Britain at the 2024 Summer Olympics, finishing fifth in the combined Boulder and Lead competition. McNeice won the 2025 IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead title.

Biography

Early life and career

McNeice started climbing at the age of five[4][5][6] when her father took her and her older brother to a climbing gym.[5][6]

Aged 12, after four years living in Malaysia where she trained on larger climbing walls,[4][6] McNeice entered her first national competition before eventually making it onto the Great Britain Climbing junior squad and going on to represent her country at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships, where she placed 5th in Bouldering and 10th in Lead.[6]

2022–2023: First national senior titles

In 2022, and still only 17-years-old, she became the youngest member of the Great Britain Climbing senior team.[5][6]

McNeice won the British Lead senior title in 2022[7] and 2023.[8][9]

2024: Fifth at Paris Olympics

She took a bronze medal at the first Olympic Qualifier Series event in Shanghai, China, in May.[10][11][12]

The following month, McNeice matched that performance at the second event of the series in Budapest, Hungary, to book her spot at the 2024 Summer Olympics.[13][14][15][16][17]

Her Olympic place was officially confirmed when Team GB named their climbing squad on 3 July.[18][19] At the Games in Paris, McNeice was 10th after the bouldering section of the semi-finals[20][21] and then came seventh in the Lead round to qualify for the final in a combined seventh position.[22][23] She finished fifth in the final.[24][25][26]

On 3 October, McNeice won her first IFSC Climbing World Cup medal, claiming bronze in the bouldering competition at the final event of the 2024 season in Seoul, South Korea.[27][28] In doing so she became only the third British woman to win a medal at a Bouldering World Cup competition after Shauna Coxsey and Claire Bell.[27][28] The result also meant McNeice finished ninth in the overall 2024 Bouldering World Cup standings.[27]

2025: World Cup Lead champion

On 26 January, she won the British Bouldering Championships.[29][30] On 9 February, she also won the British Lead Climbing Championships and became double champion.[31]

In April, McNeice claimed her second world cup medal, taking bronze in the opening bouldering event of the season in Keqiao, Shaoxing, China.[32] Later that month she won her first IFSC gold medal at the Lead World Cup in Wujiang, China, tied with South Korean climber Seo Chae-hyun.[33] [34]

In May, McNeice won her second lead gold medal at the World Cup event in Bali.[35][36] The following month, she won her first boulder World Cup gold at the World Cup round in Bern, Switzerland, making her the first British woman to win a World Cup in two sport climbing disciplines.[37][38]

In September, a fourth place finish in Koper, Slovenia, was enough to see McNeice win the overall World Cup Lead title, becoming the first British female climber to do so.[39]

2026: Madrid Bouldering gold

On 29 May, McNeice won the Bouldering gold medal at the fourth event of the newly named World Climbing Series in Madrid, Spain, taking first place as the only woman to top all four problems in the final.[40]

See also

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References

  1. ↑ "Olympics 2024: Erin McNeice". UKClimbing. Retrieved 9 May 2025.
  2. ↑ "McBeast". YouTube.
  3. ↑ "Sport Climbing: McNeice, Erin". European Championships Munich 2022. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  4. 1 2 3 4 "Erin MCNEICE". Team GB. Retrieved 3 July 2024.
  5. 1 2 3 "Sittingbourne student chosen by Team GB could be at 2024 Olympics". Kent Online. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  6. 1 2 3 4 5 "Erin McNeice Athlete". Lattice Training. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  7. ↑ "McNeice and Pope win senior titles at BLCC". Climber. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  8. ↑ "British Lead Climbing Championships 2023 - Report". UK Climbing. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  9. ↑ "RESULTS: BRITISH LEAD, SPEED & PARACLIMBING CHAMPIONSHIPS 2023". GB Climbing. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  10. ↑ "OQS: ERIN MCNEICE TAKES A BRILLIANT BRONZE IN SHANGHAI". GB Climbing. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  11. ↑ "Erin McNeice - Great Britain". olympics.com. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  12. ↑ "Raboutou in front of Seo and McNeice - Results Olympic Qualifier Series Shanghai". lacrux.com. Retrieved 28 June 2024.
  13. ↑ "McNeice, McArthur, and Thompson-Smith Qualify for Paris 2024 in Budapest". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  14. ↑ "Olympic Qualifier Series Budapest - Report". UK Climbing. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  15. ↑ "Sport climbing at the Paris 2024 Olympics". BBC Sport. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  16. ↑ "McNeice, Thompson-Smith and McArthur qualify for Paris Games". Climber. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  17. ↑ "Paris Olympics: Erin McNeice from Sittingbourne qualifies for Team GB in bouldering". Kent Online. Retrieved 28 June 2024.
  18. ↑ "GB name four-strong climbing squad for Paris 2024". BBC Sport. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  19. ↑ "Four sport climbers set for Team GB debuts at Paris 2024". Team GB. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  20. ↑ "Paris 2024 Sport Climbing: Women's Boulder Semi-Final - Report". UK Climbing. Retrieved 6 August 2024.
  21. ↑ "Kent climber inspired after first Olympic outing in Paris". Kent Live. Retrieved 7 August 2024.
  22. ↑ "Erin McNeice determined to soak up Olympic experience after qualifying for final". Yahoo Sport. Retrieved 8 August 2024.
  23. ↑ "Paris 2024 Sport Climbing - Women's Lead Semi-Final - Garnbret Leads the Way". UK Climbing. Retrieved 8 August 2024.
  24. ↑ "Briton McNeice finishes fifth in climbing final". BBC Sport. Retrieved 10 August 2024.
  25. ↑ "Paris 2024 sport climbing: All results, as Janja Garnbret becomes double Olympic champion with Boulder & Lead gold". olympics.com. Retrieved 10 August 2024.
  26. ↑ "Janja Garnbret successfully defends Olympic Gold". UK Climbing. Retrieved 10 August 2024.
  27. 1 2 3 "Silver and Bronze Medals for Milne and McNeice in IFSC Boulder World Cup Seoul 2024". UK Climbing. Retrieved 3 October 2024.
  28. 1 2 "SANDERS CLAIMS FIRST WIN AND GOLDEN LEE PLEASES SEOUL CROWD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 3 October 2024.
  29. ↑ "NEWSFLASH: British Bouldering Championships 2025 - Results". ukclimbing.com. 27 January 2025. Retrieved 30 January 2025.
  30. ↑ "McNeice, MacDougall, Rinaldi, and Fullwood Crowned 2025 British Boulder Champions". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 5 February 2025.
  31. ↑ "NEWSFLASH: British Lead Climbing Championships 2025 - Results". ukclimbing.com. 11 February 2025. Retrieved 17 February 2025.
  32. ↑ "SANDERS STARTS NEW SEASON JUST AS SHE FINISHED THE LAST – ON TOP". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 19 April 2025.
  33. ↑ "IFSC Lead World Cup Wujiang 2025: Anraku Sorato wins men's final after Erin McNeice and Seo Chaehyun share women's spoils". olympics.com. Retrieved 19 June 2025.
  34. ↑ "IFSC World Cup Wujiang 2025". IFSC. Retrieved 19 June 2025.
  35. ↑ "Erin McNeice Wins Her Second Lead World Cup in a Row". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 19 June 2025.
  36. ↑ "IFSC World Cup Bali 2025". IFSC. Retrieved 19 June 2025.
  37. ↑ "Sport Climbing World Cup Bern 2025: Erin McNeice wins first boulder gold". olympics.com. Retrieved 19 June 2025.
  38. ↑ Vettoretti, Marco (14 June 2025). "Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 14 June 2025.
  39. ↑ "Erin McNeice & Alberto Ginés López win Lead World Cup 2025!". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 8 September 2025.
  40. ↑ "World Climbing Series Comunidad de Madrid 2026: Erin McNiece tops Boulder final with gutsy final climb". olympics.com. Retrieved 29 May 2026.
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