Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure
Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure | |
|---|---|
_ICAR.jpg) Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure, 1950’s | |
| Born | 1 June 1906 |
| Died | 24 February 1999 (aged 92) |
| Occupations | fashion designer and couturier |
| Known for | Long-term stylist of Maria Callas[1][2][3] |
| Spouse | Robert Bouyeure[4] |
| Children | Roberta Bouyeure[4] |
| Relatives | Giacomo Puccini (step grandfather) |
Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure (1 June 1906 – 24 February 1999),[4][5][6] known professionally as Biki,[7] was a notable Italian fashion designer and couturier of the post-war period based in Milan.[6] Her clients were mainly connected to the La Scala opera,[1] and she is known as the creator of the style for Maria Callas,[1][8] whom she first met in 1951 at a dinner party organized by Wally Toscanini.[2]
Bouyeure was a granddaughter of the composer Giacomo Puccini.[9][1]
Biography
Bouyeure was born in Milan on 1 June 1906.[5] She studied at A. Manzoni linguistic school, where she also learned music and singing.[4] Bouyeure travelled to Paris many times and decided to learn fashion. After a few years' apprenticeship, she created a line of French-style underwear named "Domina" (the name was proposed by the poet Gabriele D'Annunzio, who was a friend of the Puccini family).[4]
On 5 May 1936, she opened her atelier in Milan on via Senato,[4][5] catering mostly to La Scala opera singers.[1] Her long-term cooperation with Maria Callas started in 1954.[1]
Bouyeure designed a plain black evening cape in wool crepe for Callas that she wore for the 1970 opening of the Teatro alla Scala season in Milan, a paisley coat in 1971,[10] and also a floor-length dress with silk satin collar which she wore in 1973 for the farewell concert at the Royal Festival Hall in London.[2]
In 1967, Bouyeure worked with the Italian fashion photographer Johnny Moncada and in 1968 for the Linea Italiana magazine.[11]
Her atelier was located in Via Monte Napoleone.[12]
Personal life
The name Biki was given to Bouyeure as a child by her step-grandfather Puccini, who called her Bicchi (Italian "biricchina" meaning naughty girl).[13] She married art expert Robert Bouyeure in 1936.[4] They had a daughter named Roberta, born in 1937.[4]
References
- 1 2 3 4 5 6 Gian Luca Bauzano (25 August 2017). "Maria Callas, i segreti dello stile unico della prima diva mediatica" [Maria Callas, the secrets of the unique style of the first media diva]. Corriere della Sera (in Italian). Retrieved 13 February 2018.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: deprecated archival service (link) - 1 2 3 4 Olsen, Kerry (21 February 2017). "Maria Callas, From Reality to Runway". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 26 January 2018. Retrieved 13 February 2018.
- ↑ Sally Williams (4 November 2007). "A Problem Mile Maria". The Sunday Telegraph. Retrieved 13 February 2018 – via pressreader.com.
- 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Michela Panigo. "Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure (Biki)". enciclopediadelledonne.it (in Italian). Retrieved 13 February 2018.
- 1 2 3 4 Paola Zonca (7 October 2004). "All' asta i gioielli della Biki la signora dell' alta moda" [Jewels of the lady of high fashion, at an auction]. la Repubblica (in Italian). Retrieved 13 February 2018.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: deprecated archival service (link) - 1 2 Marta Boneschi (18 October 2010). "La donna lombarda, una forza di modernità e di integrazione" [The Lombard woman, a force of modernity and integration]. Corriere della Sera (in Italian). Archived from the original on 13 February 2018. Retrieved 13 February 2018.
- ↑ Masiola, Rosanna; Cittadini, Sabrina (6 July 2020). The Golden Dawn of Italian Fashion: A Cross-Cultural Perspective on Maria Monaci Gallenga. Cambridge Scholars Publishing. p. 55. ISBN 978-1-5275-5575-4.
- ↑ Evelin Ojamets (22 May 2017). "Biki – the style creator of diva Callas". nordicfashionistalifestyle.com. Archived from the original on 13 February 2018. Retrieved 13 February 2018.
- ↑ Phillips-Matz, Mary Jane (3 October 2002). Puccini: A Biography. UPNE. p. XIII. ISBN 978-1-55553-530-8.
- ↑ Rosalind McKever (16 April 2014). "Review: Made in Italy, 'The Glamour of Italian Fashion' at the V&A". Apollo. Archived from the original on 13 February 2018. Retrieved 13 February 2018.
- ↑ "Made in Italy". johnnymoncada.com. Retrieved 27 December 2017.
- ↑ Potvin, John, ed. (11 January 2013). The Places and Spaces of Fashion, 1800-2007. Routledge. p. 149. ISBN 978-1-1360-8610-6. Retrieved 27 December 2017 – via Google Books.
- ↑ Umberto De Agostino (28 September 2017). "L'amica di Marta Marzotto: "Così le rubai il fidanzato"" [Marta Marzotto's friend: «So I stole her boyfriend»]. La Provincia Pavese (in Italian). Archived from the original on 13 February 2018. Retrieved 13 February 2018.