Claudio Schranz

Claudio Schranz
Claudio Schranz
Personal information
Born1949 (age 76–77)
Macugnaga, Italy
Occupations
Climbing career
Mountaineering
Major ascents

Claudio Schranz (born 1949) is an Italian mountain guide, mountaineer and skier from Macugnaga, in the Monte Rosa area of the Alps.

He is registered with the regional association of mountain guides of Lombardy.[1]

Mountaineering career

Monte Rosa

Schranz's Alpine activity is closely connected with the Monte Rosa massif. Published sources on the mountaineering history of Monte Rosa mention, among his ascents, the Via CAI Macugnaga on the east face of Punta Zumstein, opened in 1976 with Marco Roncaglioni, and the Via Francesca Schranz, opened in 1991 with Marco Perini.[2][3][4]

In 1977 he and Marco Roncaglioni opened a route on the Jägerhorn. The route was later discussed in specialist mountaineering media in connection with the attribution of its first ascent.[5][6]

Major climbs and expeditions

Year Mountain / area Activity
1976 Punta Zumstein, Monte Rosa Opened the Via CAI Macugnaga with Marco Roncaglioni.[7]
1977 Jägerhorn, Monte Rosa Opened a route with Marco Roncaglioni.[8]
1981 Glacier Dome, Himalaya Reached the summit with Marco Roncaglioni, Gianfranco Tagliaferri and Gombu Sherpa.[9]
1986 Aconcagua, Andes Made a new route on the north face of the mountain.[10]
1988 Broad Peak, Karakoram Reached the summit on 1 August 1988.[11]
1990 Mount Everest, Himalaya Member of an Italian expedition on the Tibetan side of the mountain.[12]

Himalaya and Karakoram

In 1981 Schranz took part in an Italian expedition to the Annapurna region. During the expedition, Claudio Schranz, Marco Roncaglioni, Gianfranco Tagliaferri and Gombu Sherpa reached the summit of Glacier Dome by the east ridge from the north side.[13]

The ascent was also reported in other mountaineering publications, including The Himalayan Journal, Indian Mountaineer and the Alpenvereinsjahrbuch.[14][15][16]

In 1988 he took part in an Italian expedition to Broad Peak in the Pakistani Karakoram. After the other members of the expedition turned back, Schranz reached the summit on 1 August 1988.[17]

The expedition was also reported in publications of the Himalayan Club.[18]

In 1990 he took part in an Italian expedition to Mount Everest from the Tibetan side, led by Oreste Forno. The team attempted the north face by the Great Couloir but did not reach the summit.[19]

Aconcagua

In 1986 Schranz took part in an expedition to Aconcagua in the Argentine Andes. According to the American Alpine Journal, on 27 January 1986 he made a new route on the north face of the mountain, on the Polish Glacier side.[20]

The ascent was also reported by The Alpine Journal, the journal of the British Alpine Club.[21]

Mount Kenya

The Italian Alpine Club periodical Lo Scarpone documented a solo ascent by Schranz on Mount Kenya.[22]

Ski mountaineering

Mountaineering sources mention Schranz's ski descent of the route opened in 1977 on the Jägerhorn.[23]

An article published by Skialper also mentions a descent of the Canalone Tuckett by Schranz in 1980.[24]

Exploratory expeditions

Schranz collaborated with Ambrogio Fogar during polar expeditions organized by the Italian explorer in the 1980s. During the North Pole expedition he provided technical support and maintained radio contact with the group travelling on the Arctic ice cap.[25]

His involvement in Fogar's expeditions is also mentioned in Lorenzo Grossi's biography of Fogar.[26]

Mount Ararat

In the 1990s Schranz took part in expeditions to Mount Ararat in Turkey, in connection with explorations related to alleged remains traditionally associated with Noah's Ark.

His participation is described in Angelo Palego's book Come ho trovato l'Arca di Noè and in Francesco Sepioni's L'Arca di Noè tra mistero e realtà.[27][28]

Honours

Schranz was awarded the rank of Knight of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic for sporting merit.[29]

References

  1. ↑ "Schranz Claudio". Guide Alpine Lombardia. Retrieved 4 August 2026.
  2. ↑ Buscaini, Gino (1991). Monte Rosa. Guida dei Monti d'Italia. Club Alpino Italiano–Touring Club Italiano.
  3. ↑ Metzeltin, Silvia (1991). "Storia alpinistica". In Buscaini, Gino (ed.). Monte Rosa. Guida dei Monti d'Italia. Club Alpino Italiano–Touring Club Italiano. pp. 59–67.
  4. ↑ Beltrame, Massimo (2022). Monte Rosa. 250 anni di scalate nella voce dei protagonisti. Zeisciu.
  5. ↑ "Jägerhorn, non era una via nuova: intervista al vero apritore". Montagna.tv. 29 October 2010. Retrieved 4 August 2026.
  6. ↑ "Claudio Schranz abrió la Direttissima al Jägerhorn en 1977". Desnivel. 2 November 2010. Retrieved 4 August 2026.
  7. ↑ Buscaini, Gino (1991). Monte Rosa. Guida dei Monti d'Italia. CAI–TCI.
  8. ↑ "Jägerhorn, non era una via nuova: intervista al vero apritore". Montagna.tv. 29 October 2010. Retrieved 4 August 2026.
  9. ↑ "Mountain" (83–88). 1982: 9. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  10. ↑ "Aconcagua, North Face". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 1987.
  11. ↑ "The American Alpine Journal 1989". American Alpine Club. 1989: 243. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  12. ↑ "The American Alpine Journal". 32. American Alpine Club. 1990: 300. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  13. ↑ "Mountain" (83–88). 1982: 9. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  14. ↑ "The Himalayan Journal". 39. 1983: 176. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  15. ↑ "Indian Mountaineer" (11–12). Indian Mountaineering Foundation. 1983: 140. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  16. ↑ "Alpenvereinsjahrbuch". 107: 159. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  17. ↑ "The American Alpine Journal 1989". American Alpine Club. 1989: 243. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  18. ↑ "The Himalayan Club Newsletter" (38–53): 11. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  19. ↑ "The American Alpine Journal". 32. American Alpine Club. 1990: 300. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  20. ↑ "Aconcagua, North Face". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 1987.
  21. ↑ "The Alpine Journal". 1987. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  22. ↑ "Lo Scarpone". Club Alpino Italiano. 16 June 1988. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  23. ↑ "Jägerhorn, non era una via nuova: intervista al vero apritore". Montagna.tv. 29 October 2010. Retrieved 4 August 2026.
  24. ↑ Bormida, Andrea (24 July 2019). "Yak sul Monte Rosa". Skialper. Retrieved 4 August 2026.
  25. ↑ Fogar, Ambrogio (2006). Quando c'era Superman. Piemme. ISBN 9788838486517.
  26. ↑ Grossi, Lorenzo (2024). Ambrogio Fogar. Le mille straordinarie vite dell'ultimo grande sognatore. Infinito Edizioni.
  27. ↑ Palego, Angelo (1999). Come ho trovato l'Arca di Noè.
  28. ↑ Sepioni, Francesco. L'Arca di Noè tra mistero e realtà.
  29. ↑ "Gazzetta Ufficiale della Repubblica Italiana": RA22-PA15. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)

Further reading

  • Gino Buscaini, Monte Rosa, Guida dei Monti d'Italia, CAI–TCI, 1991.
  • Silvia Metzeltin, "Storia alpinistica", in Gino Buscaini, Monte Rosa, Guida dei Monti d'Italia, CAI–TCI, 1991.
  • Massimo Beltrame, Monte Rosa. 250 anni di scalate nella voce dei protagonisti, Zeisciu, 2022.
  • Ambrogio Fogar, Quando c'era Superman, Piemme, 2006.
  • Lorenzo Grossi, Ambrogio Fogar. Le mille straordinarie vite dell'ultimo grande sognatore, Infinito Edizioni, 2024.
This page is issued from Wikipedia. The text is available under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 unless otherwise noted. Additional terms may apply for the media files.