Assamese jewellery

Axomiya Gohona
Assamese Jewellery
Geographical indication
A Sattriya dancer wearing traditional Assamese jewellery
DescriptionTraditional handcrafted jewellery of Assam made primarily from gold and silver
TypeHandicraft
AreaAssam
CountryIndia
Registered2025
MaterialGold, Silver, Gemstones, Amber

Assamese jewellery or Axomiya Gohona refers to the traditional handcrafted ornaments of the Indian state of Assam. The jewellery is typically made from pure gold (locally known as Kesa Xoon) or silver with gold plating, often adorned with colourful gemstones, amber and enamel work.[1][2] It is widely worn during festivals such as Bihu, weddings, and other ceremonial occasions.[1]

History

Jewellery making traditions in Assam date back to ancient times. The use of gold and ornaments in Assam is attested in early textual sources. The Arthashastra contains an early reference to gold associated with the region, while the Kalika Purana and Yogini Tantra refer to silver ornaments and gold utensils, respectively.[3] Traditional Assamese jewellery designs commonly draw on regional flora and fauna, musical instruments, and objects of everyday life.[4] Jewellery items like Thuria[a], Madoli[b], Junbiri and Gam Kharu[c] have origins in Bodo-Kachari people, which include Bodos, Dimasas, Chutias, Deoris, etc.

Buranjis record wide prevalence of different kinds of jewelry in Chutia kingdom and later Ahom kingdom. As gold was produced abundantly within the region, rulers and members of the royal families of the kingdoms of Assam wore garments and ornaments made of gold. Kings wore gem-set gold rings, anklets, robes embroidered with gold thread, gamkharu, five-stranded, seven-stranded and nine-stranded necklaces, and pearls suspended from the ears with gold thread. Queens likewise wore mekhelas embroidered with gold-thread motifs, along with various gold ornaments.[17]

The 1428 copperplate inscription of Chutia king Durlabhnarayan mentions a swarnakara or goldsmith named Krishna Sadhu.[18] The last Chutia king Nitipal, in order to establish peace with the invading Ahom army, sent a lot of gifts to the Ahom king and his ministers, which included jewellery items like gold Keru earrings[19][d], gold bangles (probably Gam Kharu)[23] and gold foot bangles.[24][25] As per Assam Buranji (SM), after the defeat of the Chutia king, the Ahoms brought in the gold waist ornament Kakali of the Chutia queen and offered it to the shrine at Sadiya.[26] Apart from the jewellery, many artisans including goldsmiths (Sonari), who were experts in making ornaments, were also moved from the Chutia capital Sadiya to the Ahom capital.[27][e]

During the reign of Ahom king Pratap Singhaa, the people who came with Sundar Gohain of Koch Behar worked as goldsmiths in the Ahom kingdom.[29] During the reign of Suramphaa (1641–1644), known in the chronicles as Bhoga Raja, the Ahom court introduced sumptuary regulations governing dress, ornaments and other visible markers of social status. Hindus were forbidden from wearing gold beads, rings and thuria, while Ahoms were required to live according to the standards assigned to their rank; an Ahom who attempted to exceed his prescribed position could be put to death. These measures formed part of a wider set of restrictions that also regulated house construction and women's clothing.[30] During the reign of Ahom king Rudra Singha, significant efforts were made to improve the quality and craftsmanship of gold ornaments in Assam. Historical accounts note that goldsmiths from Assam were sent to cities such as Jaipur and Benares to learn advanced techniques of ornament-making.[31] Prior to this period, locally made ornaments were considered less refined. Upon their return, two trained artisans were appointed at Rajshal by the king and were conferred the title of Bardoloi, leading to improvements in craftsmanship.[31] Subsequently, the production of gold-plated ornaments expanded, and the goldsmithing tradition in Assam evolved into a thriving cottage industry.[31]

Assamese jwellery

Materials and craftsmanship

Goldsmiths in ancient Assam used a wide range of specialized tools and implements for crafting ornaments and decorative objects.

Juroon, A Assamese wedding ceremony where members of the groom's family doles up the bride-to-be with jewellery

Some of the commonly used tools included Mathani (large, medium, and small knives), Charai Mathani (a small brass knife), Resni, Narni, Afuri, Ghar, Thiha, Kati, Ghuti, Phali, Akwa, Reti, Ghotni, Shan, Muhi, Dhalna, Kakon, Chepena, Lep, and Sarah.[31] In addition to these, several traditional tools and devices were known by regional names, including Gotalimaria, Dheka, Bhati, Feti-Chatuli, Chatuli, Akuri, Khan, Jaran, Marpa, Biri Matha, Miri Sako Akwa, Pacharangi, Fukchunga, Chana, Kasati Shil, Rogan, and Kholni.[31]

Traditional Assamese jewellery is primarily made using:

  • Gold (Kesa Xoon) – often of high purity
  • Silver – frequently gold-plated
  • Gemstones and enamel (mina work) – in red, green, blue, black, and white shades[2]
  • Amber

Artisans employ handcrafting techniques passed down through generations, including engraving, filigree work, and enamel decoration. Designs often incorporate motifs of birds, flowers, musical instruments, and cultural symbols.[1]

Types of Assamese jewellery

Necklaces

Junbiri

Junbiri

Junbiri is one of the most well known Assamese ornaments, characterized by its crescent (moon-like) shape. The term derives from jun (moon). It is widely worn during festivals and weddings.

Dholbiri

Dholbiri and Motabiri

Dholbiri, also known as motabiri, is a traditional necklace inspired by the shape of the dhol (drum). It is often adorned with intricate patterns.[1] Historically, the term motabiri was used to refer to a large, drum-shaped ornament made without the use of gemstones. In earlier times, this ornament was worn exclusively by men.[31] In contemporary practice, dhulbiri ornaments are crafted using gemstones as well as enamel work in colours such as black, red, and green. Over time, the usage of the ornament has expanded, and it is now worn by women as well.[1]

Dugdugi

Dugdugi or Doogdoogi is a gold pendant resembling a small leaf. It is worn hanging from the neck to the chest.[1]

Bracelets

Gamkharu

Gamkharu bangle

Gamkharu is a traditional broad bracelet, usually made of gold or silver. It dates back to the pre-Ahom period and symbolizes strength, prosperity, and feminine power. Historically associated with royalty, it later became a common bridal ornament.

Earrings

Keru

Keru are cylindrical or spiral-shaped earrings, often decorated with enamel and gemstones.[1]

Lokaparo

Lokaparo earrings feature two pigeons facing each other, symbolizing love and companionship.[32]

Rings and other ornaments

Assamese jewellery also includes rings such as Senpata, Jethinejia, and Bakhorpotiya, along with various bead-based ornaments like Moni necklaces.[1]

Thuriya, an Assamese style earing

Cultural significance

Assamese jewellery is an essential component of traditional attire, particularly worn with the Mekhela Sador. It plays a vital role in weddings, festivals, and folk dance ceremonies such as Sattriya dance and other folk dance performances.[1]

The craft is prominent in places like Jorhat, Nagaon, Barpeta, and Sivasagar.[32]

In 2025, traditional Assamese jewellery as Axomiya Gohona received the Geographical Indication (GI) tag from the Government of India for its unique craftsmanship and cultural heritage.[2][33]

The GI recognition was facilitated by organizations such as the Gems and Jewellery Promotion Council of Assam and supported by the Assam Science and Technology and Environment Council (ASTEC).[33]

References

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  1. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 "ASOMI Product: Assamese Jewellery". Asomi Assamese Jewellery. Assam State Rural Livelihoods Mission. Archived from the original on 2024-07-14.
  2. 1 2 3 "Assam's handmade jewellery receives prestigious GI tag". The Times of India. 8 April 2025.
  3. ↑ Goswami, Gitanjali; Sarma, Mousumi (2018). "Assamese Jewellery: The Shimmering Facet of Assamese Culture" (PDF). SAARC Culture. 6. SAARC Cultural Centre: 37–39. Retrieved 21 July 2026.
  4. ↑ Goswami, Gitanjali; Sarma, Mousumi (2018). "Assamese Jewellery: The Shimmering Facet of Assamese Culture" (PDF). SAARC Culture. 6. SAARC Cultural Centre: 37. Retrieved 21 July 2026.
  5. ↑ Doula earings of Bodo tribe
  6. ↑ Khmaothai Dimasa earrings
  7. ↑ "Jewellery". Xobdo.org. Retrieved 21 July 2026.
  8. ↑ Pathak, Guptajit (2016). "A Discourse on the Traditions and Cultural Identity of the Deori Community of Assam" (PDF). The Creative Launcher. 1 (4): 58. doi:10.53032/tcl.2016.1.4.10.
  9. ↑ Barua, Gopal Chandra, Ahom Buranji, p. 226.
  10. ↑ Barua, Gopal Chandra, Ahom Buranji, p. 221.
  11. ↑ "History". Namsai District, Government of Arunachal Pradesh. Bisa Gam and Duffa Gam were Singpho chiefs.
  12. ↑ Ian Heath, Men-at-Arms: The North-East Frontier 1837–1901, p. 44.
  13. ↑ Rahang, Manjuli. "কেৰু, মণি, থুৰিয়াৰ কথাৰে". Vikaspedia (in Assamese).
  14. ↑ Bhuyan, S. K., Tungkhungia Buranji, p. 239.
  15. ↑ Deori, Probitra; Deori, D. Machiya. Deori Language Book (PDF). Mahadevpur, Arunachal Pradesh: Deori Development Society. p. 13. Retrieved 21 July 2026.
  16. ↑ Bodo tribe Muthi Asan bangle
  17. ↑ ৰাজকুমাৰ, সৰ্বানন্দ (2000). ইতিহাসে সোঁৱৰা ছশটা বছৰ [Six Hundred Years Remembered by History] (in Assamese). বনলতা. ISBN 81-7339-308-7.
  18. ↑ Barua, Swarnalata, "Chutia Jatir Buranji, p.588
  19. ↑ "Then the Chutiâ king sent to our king Katakis with the following things to sue for peace - a pair of gold Keru earings (Tong-ru-Khang-kham), golden cloth (sin-kham) and cotton cloth(sin-phra-nun)."(Jacquesson:8)
  20. ↑ Satsari Buranji, p. 58
  21. ↑ Deodhai Buranji,"ৰজাদেৱলৈ সন্দেশ দি আহিছিল: সোণৰ কেৰু ১ যোৰ, সোনোৱালী কাপোৰ ১ জোৰ, নৰা কাপোৰ এখান।"
  22. ↑ Purani Assam Buranji, p.40
  23. ↑ Bhuyan, S.K, "Assam Buranji (SM)", p.11
  24. ↑ "Then the Sutiyâ king desired to send silver and gold lipped Jâpi (Kup-ngiun-kham), gold bracelets (Mao-kham), gold basket (Liu-kham), gold box (Khup-kham), gold foot bangles (Khu-tin-kham), gold pirâ (Kham-ku), horse (Ma), elephant (Chang-pai), and two Âroans (Phra-nun) and Xorais (Phun) to the Ahom king."(Jacquesson:12)
  25. ↑ (Barua 1939:56)
  26. ↑ Bhuyan, S.K, "Assam Buranji (SM)", p.11, "ঘৈণীয়েককো কঙ্কালত কাটি শালত দি‌ থলে।‌ ককালৰ সোণৰ কঙ্কালি তাৰ শদিয়াৰ দেওঘলৈ দিলে।"
  27. ↑ Baruah, S L (1986), A Comprehensive History of Assam, Munshiram Manoharlal, p. 230
  28. ↑ Bhuyan, S.K, "Satsari Assam Buranji", p.87
  29. ↑ Barbarua, Hiteswar, Ahomar Din,p. 460
  30. ↑ Saikia, Yasmin (1997). In the Meadows of Gold: Telling Tales of the Swargadeos at the Crossroads of Assam. Spectrum Publications. p. 28. ISBN 9788185319612. Bhogaraja extended the road to Salguri. Before ascending to the throne in the presence of his Gohains, Ranga Phukan was sacrificed...That year it was stipulated that Hindus could not build houses with an upper beam. Neither could they wear gold beads, rings and Thuriya. 88 Even Ahoms were to live according to their standards. If they tried to exceed their position, they were to be put to death. Hindu women were forbidden from wearing fancy Mekhala Chaddar. Such an offence carried a death sentence. All these rules were made at this time.
  31. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Barbaruah, Hiteswar (1981). Ahomor Din. Assam Publishing Company. p. 500.
  32. 1 2 "The Evolution of Jewellery Traditions in Assam". Assamese Jewellery.
  33. 1 2 "Assam's traditional jewellery receives GI tag". Retail Jeweller India. 4 April 2025.

Notes

  1. ↑ Thuria is a traditional earring worn by the Bodo-Kachari tribes, especially those in Upper Assam. Similar earplug type earrings are seen among the tribes of northern Arunachal Pradesh like Mishmis, Nyishis and Adis. The Bodos call the Thuria "Doula"[5]. Similar earplug earings worn by Dimasa women are called "Khmaothai"[6], while those worn by Tripuri women are called "Wakhum".
  2. ↑ "Li" in Deori language means necklace;"Li-Kotung" means necklace and earrings[7]. Madoli, Junbiri, Dugdugi are some of the ornaments the Deori women use while performing ‘Bisu’[8]. Durum-li or Madol-li are alternate names in Deori language for the same Dhol shaped necklace; "Durum" in Deori and "Madol" in general means Dhol.
  3. ↑ In earlier times, the gam kharu was worn by tribal chiefs in Assam. Historical chronicles use the title gam—said to be a derivative of the word gram—for chiefs or village headmen among communities such as the Misings, Chutias (as in Narai Gam),[9] Daflas (as in Kabakkara Gam),[10] Singphos (as in Bisa Gam),[11] and Mishmis.[12] The ornament is said to have acquired the name gam kharu because it was a bracelet (kharu) worn by a gam.[13] The Tungkhungia Buranji also records the gam kharu as a bracelet worn by men.[14] Although formerly worn by men, the ornament is now primarily associated with women. Gam Kharu is known as Gam Ushung in Deori language[15]. The Chutia king gifted gold bangles to the Ahom king and his ministers, which could be Gam Kharu since Gam Kharu was generally worn by men. Similar types of bangles worn by Bodo women are called Muthi Asan[16].
  4. ↑ Other Buranji references include Satsari Buranji[20], Deodhai Assam Buranji[21] and Purani Assam Buranji[22]
  5. ↑ As per Buranjis, Nangram, the queen of Ahom king Bhoga Raja was a daughter of a Chutia sonari (goldsmith)[28]

Bibliography

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